John on the summit of Mt. Belford
Comments
  • Mitch Lunsford: Go John, go!
  • Tim: I watched your climb yesterday on the Spot tracker and pulled up some pictures of Engineer Mountain. With the...
  • Robert LeClair: Happy Birthday John! I can’t think of a better way to spend the event than in CO climbing...
  • Derek: Had the luck to go climbing in Derbyshire with this amazing guy in 1963. He is a great guy with a fantastic...
  • Alan Arnette: Excellent selections John. One of the heaviest items is water at 2.2 lbs per liter so having a SteriPEN...
  • Author: John Little | Category: Mountains, News, Trip Reports
    Comments: 1

    I would to get in one more good workout at elevation before the adventure begins on Saturday so I drove out 550 to hike Pass Creek Trail up to Engineer Mountain. The trail covers just over a couple of miles, gains over 1,400 feet, and meets up with the Engineer Mountain Trail somewhere around 11,500 feet. My goal was a relaxed hike to 12,000.

    The concentration of oxygen at sea level is about 21% and the barometric pressure averages 760 mmHg. As altitude increases, the concentration remains the same but the number of oxygen molecules per breath is reduced. At 12,000 feet (3,658 meters) the barometric pressure is only 483 mmHg, so there are roughly 40% fewer oxygen molecules per breath. – The OA Guide to High Altitude

    I was the second person at the trail head. The weather didn’t look great, it was damp and cloudy, but wasn’t especially threatening. I expected light rain, possibly even hail, but didn’t see either during the hike. The trail itself was pretty muddy from showers the night before but that didn’t present any real problems until the final 400 or so feet.

    I moved quickly through the initial switchbacks. This is an amazing beautiful trail through alpine forest, small streams and waterfalls, and small lakes. I had the trail completely to myself until I reached the highpoint. Traveling solo in this kind of territory is new experience for me but I loved every minute of it.

    I didn’t really notice the altitude until 11,300 but even then it didn’t give me too many problems. I had a little less power but felt great. Very few breaks were required throughout the hike and when I did stop to catch my breath I noticed that my recovery time was much improved. The few breaks that I did take lasted no longer than a few seconds. It felt good to keep pushing up.

    Somewhere around 11,400 or 11,500 you leave the treeline and Engineer Mountain comes into view. The scene is stunning and well worth the hike. My camera phone doesn’t do it justice.

    First View of Engineer Peak from Pass Creek Trail

    First View of Engineer Mountain from Pass Creek Trail

    A couple hundred yards up the meadow and you run into intersecting trails at the “T”. I was feeling strong so I took the steep rocky, and today quite muddy, path directly up Engineer. What followed was a bit of a struggle but fun. Slipping was a constant threat but my trekking poles and careful foot placement kept me moving up despite the mud. I had to occasionally move off trail a few feet but eventually made it to an awesome bit of rock that allowed amazing views of the valley and rock glacier to my left.

    View from 12,050 Feet on Engineer Mountain - Back toward Pass Creek Trail

    iew from 12,050 Feet on Engineer Mountain

    View from 12,050 Feet on Engineer Mountain - Back toward Pass Creek Trail

    It had taken me less than two hours to reach this point. That’s not record time but I’m happy with the way my body responded to the altitude. I even briefly considered moving further up to around 12,500 or so but decided that I didn’t want to tackle the even steeper muddy trail above.

    I hung out at 12,100 for a while. A trio of college girls (or recent graduates) caught up with me and said they were going to the summit. I wished them luck before tackling the steep muddy descent. The descent turned out to be easier and faster than anticipated – largely because I moved a few feet to the right of the trail, into a rocky gully, and avoided the mud. Once I was back to the intersecting trails heading down was predictably easy and fast. I moved quickly and only stopped to chat with hikers on their way up.

    This hike was worth the trip in itself but my main goal was to test myself and get some altitude prior to our 14er attempts. That adventure starts Saturday morning with a 6 mile hike 3,000 feet up to about 11,200. I’m a little more confident (just a little) after this morning’s hike.

    Author: John Little | Category: Mobile Updates, News
    Comments: 0

    I felt surprisingly good late yesterday afternoon despite the fact that I’d been on the road since 3am. So after checking in and getting settled I took a trail across the road from the hostel for a short hike. It felt good to get the heart pumping again so after reaching the top of the hill, maybe 100 feet or so, I hiked back down, crossed the road, and started hiking the steep ridge behind the hostel.

    The initial couple hundred feet was pretty tame dirt trail but I eventually found a steep, rocky, section that took me pretty directly up another 400 feet. The hiking was easy from then on but beautiful. Most of Durango was in view directly below me.

    Hiking Above Durango
    Steam from the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad train as it pulls into town.

    Locals apparently spend a lot of time up here. There were several structures built from dead wood and stone – like these impressive chairs.

    Hiking Above Durango - Interesting Seats at 7,400 feet

    I eventually picked up about 1,000 feet of elevation before heading back to the hostel. Friends and family think I’m nuts for hiking the same day I arrived but it felt great to get moving – not too challenging at all.

    Today will be a full rest day but there may be another hike Thursday. There are some easy trails nearby that pick up a couple thousand feet to 12,000. Whatever I do will be relatively easy because I don’t want to go into Saturday’s 6 mile +3,000 foot hike, and the climbs that follow, tired.

    Sep 28, 2009
    Author: John Little | Category: Trip Reports
    Comments: 4

    Training

    15 months and just over 100 pounds ago I decided that I was going to climb mountains. It was a horribly unrealistic goal for an overweight asthmatic who lives at altitude zero in Houston, Texas but that was the point. I knew that I’d need a significant challenge to keep me motivated to become physically fit. Besides, I’d always wanted to climb. One of my co-workers at the time, Jermaine Gonzales, had similar goals and decided to commit himself to the challenge as well. To further ratchet up the pressure I told everyone I knew about our goals and went public with it by launching neverstopclimbing.com. I was committed and begin training two hours, or more, almost every day.

    We reached our first summit just five months later with a climb of Guadalupe Peak in West Texas. The hike to 8,751 feet is very strenuous but not difficult by climbing standards. Still, it was progress and it allowed me to turn my focus toward a significantly more difficult challenge – Colorado’s 14ers.

    Read the rest of this entry »

    Author: John Little | Category: News
    Comments: 0
    Never Stop Climbing: Mt. Belford & Mt. Oxford Climb - Colorado 14ers

    I leave for Colorado Thursday morning. I’ll have a couple of days in Leadville before meeting up with Alan Arnette for an early Saturday morning attempt at Belford and Oxford.

    The first attempt at these mountains, earlier this year, was a posthole nightmare that took us to only 10,600 feet before turning back. We won’t encounter snow that deep or rotten on this trip although some early snow might make the trip interesting.

    I’ll update this post periodically before the climb.

    Final Pre-Climb Update
    The weather forecast for Saturday’s climb is excellent. We were both able to safely cut some our heaviest gear since cold and excessive snow won’t be a problem. This helps.

    We probably won’t be able to communicate once the climb starts since the area is somewhat remote. However, we will be carrying a SPOT Satellite Messenger that will allow you to track our progress via the link below. The SPOT should be active by 6am when we hit the trail. Its signal may not get out at times so don’t be alarmed by whatever you see.

    Thanks again to the many of you who have been supportive of this effort.

    Routes
    Mt. Belford – Northwest Ridge (Standard)
    Mt. Oxford – From Mt. Belford (Standard)

    Satellite Tracking
    SPOT Messenger Updates (?)

    Twitter
    TeamNSC – We’ll be sending periodic “OK” status updates to this Twitter account from our SPOT satellite messenger in addition to any other updates we can get out.
    Johnwlittle (John Little)
    Alanarnette (Alan Arnettte)

    We may not be able to respond to messages during the climb but we might be able to read them so feel free to send them on. We’ll reply when we can.

    Photos
    Photos will be posted on Flickr

    Weather
    National Weather Service

    Aug 04, 2009
    Author: John Little | Category: Planning
    Comments: 1

    Life has been challenging since our return to Houston in late April. The economic nosedive created significant challenges at work for both of us and I was hit hard by flu. We’re hanging in there though. Jermaine has moved on to a new job and I’m training hard again after a longer than expected recovery period.

    Our trip to Belford was a fantastic, if difficult, learning experience. You can learn a lot from falling face first in deep snow every 30 seconds for hours on end. So, the plan now is to take those lessons and return to Belford-Oxford in early October when the weather is admittedly somewhat unpredictable but likely less challenging than the conditions we faced in April.

    Details are still being worked out. Jermaine might not be able to make it but Alan Arnette and Robert LeClair are apparently ready to go. The goal now is to finalize the plans by September 1. Stay tuned for updates.

    Update:
    We’ve moved the date up a couple of weeks so I will be heading to Colorado in September. Unfortunately, it doesn’t look like Robert will be able to join us.

    Apr 26, 2009
    Author: John Little | Category: News
    Comments: 2

    We’re back in Houston. We made it to 10,400 feet after significant struggle with sometimes deep, almost always unstable, snow. There were a number of issues and challenges but also a lot of lessons learned. We’re mostly happy with our effort – we definitely gave it everything we had and we learned much from Alan Arnette.

    I’ll post a full trip report Monday. Many thanks to all of you who followed along and offered advice and support. The adventure will continue.

    “Getting to the top is optional, but getting down is mandatory. A lot of people get focused on the summit and forget that.”
    - Ed Viesturs quote

    Apr 19, 2009
    Author: John Little | Category: Planning
    Comments: 4
    Never Stop Climbing: Photo of John Little's Backpack

    We leave in two days so final preparations are underway. I spent part of the afternoon test packing my backpack to make sure that it would hold everything we’ll need to establish our camp in Missouri Gulch. So far, so good. Here’s what’s in (or on) the pack in this photo:

    Sleeping bag
    Foam sleeping pad
    Inflatable sleeping pad
    Jetboil stove
    2 heavy base layers – tops and bottoms
    1 Fleece pullover
    2 expedition weight wool socks
    2 pairs of liner socks
    Black Diamond Mercury Mitts
    REI Switchback gloves
    Lightweight gloves
    Glacier glasses
    Goggles
    First aid kit
    Assorted personal hygiene gear
    2 Nalgene bottles – 1 insulated
    1 10L MSR Dromedary bag
    Crampons
    Balaclava
    Buff head wrap
    Ice Axe
    Knife, lighter, firesteel, compass, other basic survival gear
    Map
    Down jacket
    DSLR camera
    Headlamp
    Small flashlight
    6 freeze dried meals
    4 packets of tuna
    5 packets of oatmeal
    7 packets of energy chews
    6 packets of cytomax powder
    2 packets of instant potatoes
    10 tea bags
    5 instant coffee packets
    12 Clif bars
    6 powdered soup packets
    1 thermos

    You can see more detailed information on my gear here. Thankfully, most of this will only be on my back day one. Once we establish camp I’ll be packing a much lighter load.

    Mar 22, 2009
    Author: John Little | Category: Climbing Gear
    Comments: 2

    This is an evolving list of the more significant components of my gear collection. Much of this will be used for our April climbs. I also recommend checking out Alan Arnette’s excellent gear round-up.

    Outer
    Top – Marmot PreCip
    Top – Mountain Hardwear Exposure II Parka
    Bottom – Mountain Hardwear Exposure II Bib

    Middle Layers
    Top – REI Power Stretch Half-Zip

    Base Layers
    Top – REI Heavyweight MTS Long-Sleeve Crew
    Bottom – REI Heavyweight MTS Bottoms

    Gloves
    REI Switchback Gloves
    Black Diamond Mercury Mitts

    Head
    Seirus Quick Clava
    Teotepec Buff

    Eyes
    Julbo – Dolgan
    Oakley Proven OTG Goggles

    Socks
    Liner – Smartwool Merino Liner
    Heavy – REI Merino Wool Expedition Socks

    Boots
    Asolo AFS 8000
    Vasque Breeze GTX
    SuperFeet Green Insoles

    Gaiters
    OR Expedition Crocodiles

    Backpack
    Kelty Coyote 4900 (Replacing 2009)

    Crampons
    Black Diamond Contact Strap

    Ice Tools
    Black Diamond Raven Pro Ice Axe

    Sleeping
    Sleeping Bag – ALPS Mountaineering 20F Crescent Lake
    Inflatable Pad – Therm-a-Rest TrailPro
    Insulation – Therm-a-Rest RidgeRest

    Poles
    Black Diamond Alpine Carbon Cork
    Leki Trail Makalu (broken on Mt. Belford)

    Cooking
    Jetboil Personal Cooking System

    Light
    Black Diamond Spot
    Brinkmann 1 Watt L.E.D. Flashlight

    Hydration
    MSR 10L Dromedary w/ Hydration Kit
    Nalgene Water Bottles

    Tent
    Kelty Grand Mesa 2
    4 Season to be added soon

    Watch-Altimeter Suunto Core

    Common Foods
    Twinings Teas
    Mountain House freeze dried meals
    Clif Bars
    Cytomax drink powder
    Honey Stinger Energy Chews
    StarKist Albacore Tuna
    Taster’s Choice Instant Coffee
    Lipton Cup-a-Soup
    Quaker Instant Oatmeal
    Idahoan Instant Mashed Potatoes

    First Aid – Hygiene
    Adventure Medical Ultralight .9
    Action Wipes
    Advil
    Immodium

    Also check out Jermaine’s gear.

    Author: John Little | Category: Training
    Comments: 1

    My decision to start climbing was absolutely crazy really. I guess that’s one of the reasons it appealed to me in the first place. I was significantly overweight, nearly 40, and had no previous climbing experience. I also have asthma, and live in Houston, Texas – a place flat and far from anything worth climbing. Making it to the top of an 8,000m summit would take years of lifestyle-altering training and thousands of dollars in gear and travel expenses. So where do you even start with that mess?

    Diet

    This is probably worth an entire post in it’s own right but I’m not really qualified to dispense diet advice to people. What I did though was focus on healthy natural foods. Processed foods, white flour, sugar, and high-carb foods were mostly replaced by vegetables, lean meats (lots of tuna, turkey, and chicken), fruit, and fat-free yogurt. I didn’t restrict calories as I made the switch to new eating habits and I think that’s key to making the transition somewhat bearable. I did cut calories down to about 1,500 a day about a month into the transition.

    These days If I do want to deviate from the diet for a burger, or similar meal,  I won’t get it from a fast-food restaurant. Real foods, even if relatively unhealthy, are infinitely better for you than the fast-food alternatives. I’m nine months into this transition and my diet isn’t perfect but it’s perfect 90-95% of the time and that’s enough, when paired with training, to generate results. I’ve lost 95 pounds, and added quite a bit of muscle, since June 2008.

    A typical day’s intake for might include:

    Breakfast – Fat free yogurt with fresh fruit and a healthy cereal.

    Lunch – Turkey sandwich on wheat with mustard and veggies, a salad, or chicken breast.

    Dinner – Baked chicken, chicken fajitas on whole wheat tortillas (lettuce & tomatoes – no cheese, guacamole, or sour cream), or Tuna with black pepper and dill relish on wheat (no mayo)

    Snacks – Fruit, fat free yogurt, or a cup of healthy soup.

    Exercise

    The vast majority of serious climbers will spend far more time training than climbing. If you’re starting from zero, which is where I started, you’d better be willing to turn over thousands of hours in your schedule to training. To be honest it requires a level of commitment that most of your friends and family will find a bit insane – especially if you live in a climbing-clueless town like Houston.

    I started with walking – 15 minutes worth. 15 minutes of walking seems laughable now but the first few days it was enough. By the end of the week I was up to 45 minutes a day. I upped the time to two hours a day by the second week and started walking 3-4 hours a day on the weekends – sometimes twice a day. My only real goal at this point was weight loss and getting my cardio up to what I’d consider a base level.

    Three months into this daily routine I’d lost probably 50 pounds and was at a point where hours of walking no longer even felt remotely like a workout. My asthma had responded well to daily low-level cardio and It seemed like a good time to up the intensity of my workouts. I started climbing stairs.

    Stair Climbing

    Stair climbing is one of the best training tools, possibly the best, a aspiring alpine climber located in the flatland can employ. It’s a great training method for anyone actually. It works the lungs and the legs hard – just like climbing. It’s also relatively accessible since almost anyone can find a few flights of stairs to climb anywhere and at any time – at no cost. I live in downtown Houston so I’m literally surrounded by stairs.

    I started by working in a few flights in public areas along my walking route. I’d cover six miles or so and work in ten stories worth of stairs. After a couple weeks of this I blocked out a few minutes and I’d climb a two-story section of stairs ten times. It was hard. I plodded along taking one step at a time and had to focus on my asthma-impaired breathing but I did this each night for month. It took me almost 30 minutes to knock out 20 stories because I had to pause between flights to catch my breath. It sucked, but I noticed significant increases in my performance every few days.

    About a month into this routine I doubled the number to 40 stories. Two days later I went for 50 stories, a week later 70. That cardio foundation I’d been searching for seemed to be there. At that point I was really on a roll and started climbing 70 stories every other day and walking 2 hours on my off days. I was still sort of plodding upward but I was making it and making progress. I continued this routine for about a month before going for 100 stories in less than an hour – and making it.

    100 stories, about 3 times per week, became the new routine. I focused on my time and continued to shave minutes off. I wasn’t setting records but I was getting the 100 in consistently between 40-50 minutes. I continued this for a few weeks before deciding to move to stair sprints.

    My current stair sprint involves a two mile loop downtown, which has 14 different 2-3 story sections of stairs along the way. I walk quickly between the sections and sprint, two steps at a time, up the stairs. I do the circuit once, sprinting up each section of stairs once, then do it again but sprint up each set of stairs twice before moving on. I usually also pick one section and do 3 sets of 5 sprints along the way. It adds up to over 70 stories of sprints over 3-4 miles. I do this in just over an hour with an average heart rate of about 146 bpm and a lot of spikes to 165-175 bpm.

    What Next?

    I’m continuing with the stair sprints for now. I’ll probably add an extra lap around the circuit on Saturday’s through March. I’m also starting to focus on my core and upper body more. I’ll be adding lots of daily crunches and similar exercises this month as I up my workouts to twice a day. I still consider myself to be at the initial phase of my fitness plan and expect it to move into a more intense phase later this summer. At that point I’ll probably seek professional training help and get much more deliberate about training and diet.

    Disclaimer

    This writeup makes my progress sound a bit less painful than it actually was. There was a lot, continues to be a lot, of trial and error involved in this progression – not to mention minor injuries, failed attempts, etc. I’ve learned a lot about listening to my body and monitoring my performance/heart rate along the way. The bottom line is be your own guide and, whatever training program you choose, progress at a pace that makes sense for you.

    Update
    Check out the awesome Steph Davis’ post on weight training for climbers and NASA astronaut Scott Parazynski’s post on training for Everest in Houston.

    Author: John Little | Category: Training, Video
    Comments: 0

    This is just a short series of clips shot on a recent 15 mile training hike around Huntsville State Park.

    The park is pleasant enough but these hikes are really just endurance workouts. We load up the packs, I carry about 30 pounds, and knock out some miles and about 600′ of elevation gain. It’s not real challenging but challenging terrain isn’t easy to find near Houston.

    This was also our first test of the awesome new Flip MinoHD which we’ll probably be taking with us on future climbs.

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